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Collections

Woman's Hoop Petticoat (Pannier)1750-1780

Not on view
Museum display of 18th-century undergarments on a white mannequin: a brown boned bodice with vertical channels and a wide dome-shaped hoop skirt in crinkled ecru fabric with three horizontal hoop bands
Museum display of 18th-century undergarments on a white mannequin in three-quarter profile: a boned stays corset in warm tan silk with lace-trimmed elbow sleeves, worn over a domed silk hoop petticoat with horizontal boning channels creating a bell-shaped silhouette; a small heeled mule is visible at the hem.
Title
Woman's Hoop Petticoat (Pannier)
Place Made
England
Date Made
1750-1780
Medium
Linen plain weave and cane
Dimensions
31 1/4 × 54 × 18 1/2 in. (79.38 × 137.16 × 46.99 cm)
Credit Line
Purchased with funds provided by Suzanne A. Saperstein and Michael and Ellen Michelson, with additional funding from the Costume Council, the Edgerton Foundation, Gail and Gerald Oppenheimer, Maureen H. Shapiro, Grace Tsao, and Lenore and Richard Wayne
Accession Number
M.2007.211.981
Classification
Costumes
Collecting Area
Costume and Textiles
Curatorial Notes

The hoop petticoat, or pannier (French for basket), worn in Europe in the early eighteenth century, measured up to six feet in width by midcentury. Strips of cane or baleen formed an expanded oval, with extra hoops on the sides to maintain the garment’s amplitude. The exaggerated breadth of the pannier was meant to enhance the artificially long and slender corseted bodice, and to support and display wide skirts made of expensive textiles.

Selected Bibliography
  • Takeda, Sharon Sadako and Kaye Durland Spilker. Fashioning Fashion: Deux Siècles de Mode Européenne, 1700-1915. Paris: Arts Décoratifs; Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art; Munich; New York: Delmonico Books-Prestel, 2013.
  • Takeda, Sharon Sadako and Kaye Durland Spilker. Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700-1915. Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art; Munich; New York: Delmonico Books/Prestel, 2010.
  • Takeda, Sharon Sadako and Kaye Durland Spilker. Fashioning Fashion: Europäische Moden, 1700-1915. Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art; Munich; New York: Prestel, 2012.
  • Blanco F., José and Mary D. Doering, eds. Clothing and Fashion: American Fashion from Head to Toe, vol. 1, Pre-Colonial Times Through the American Revolution. Santa Barbara: ABC-CLIO, 2016.
  • Arnold, Janet, Jenny Tiramani, and Luca Costigliolo. Patterns of Fashion: The Content, Cut, Construction and Context of Bodies, Stays, Hoops and Rumps c. 1595-1795. London: The School of Historical Dress, 2018.
  • Rauser, Amelia F. The Age of Undress: Art, Fashion, and the Classical Ideal in the 1790s. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2020.