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Collections

Man's Suitcirca 1790, altered circa 1805

Not on view
Museum display of two mannequins in historical costumes: a mauve silk woman's gown with a sweeping trained skirt and gold trim, and a purple silk man's three-piece suit with a cream embroidered waistcoat
Fashion display on a white mannequin wearing a late 18th-century men's suit: deep purple silk tailcoat with dark embroidered trim along the front edges and cuffs, cream waistcoat with dense metallic embroidery, and matching purple breeches. Ruffled white cravat at the neck; white curled wig on the mannequin's head.
18th-century men's court suit displayed on a white mannequin with powdered wig; purple silk coat, waistcoat, and breeches trimmed with elaborate gold and silver metallic embroidery along the front closure, cuffs, and hem.
18th-century men's coat displayed on a mannequin, rear view; iridescent purple silk with metallic silver embroidery along the back hem and pleated skirt, with decorative buttons at the side vents.
Two mannequins in 18th-century European dress. Foreground: a mauve silk gown with wide trained skirt, gold trim bands, and fitted bodice. Background: a deep purple coat with cream embroidered waistcoat and breeches. Both mannequins wear white powdered wigs.
Detail photograph of a silk coat in faded purple-mauve, showing the front opening with metallic silver-gilt embroidered border of geometric lattice and floral sprigs, and a column of circular buttons embroidered with botanical motifs; cream silk lining visible beneath.
Detail of a purple silk coat displayed on a mannequin, featuring dense gold metallic embroidery in geometric and floral patterns along the front edge and wide cuff, with circular fabric-covered buttons and white lace ruffle at the wrist.
Detail of a purple silk garment with dense metallic gold embroidery featuring diagonal lattice patterns, floral sprigs, and circular medallions outlined with coiled cord and small sequins.
Close-up of embroidered textile in deep mauve, with metallic gold threadwork featuring a central circular medallion enclosing a floral sprig motif, surrounded by radiating leaf and flower embroidery with applied sequins and small mirrored embellishments.
Close-up detail of textile embroidery on dark mauve fabric, featuring dense gold metallic threadwork in coiled and braided techniques, with small circular sequins and faceted stone embellishments forming floral and foliate motifs.
Close-up detail of textile with metallic embroidery on purple-brown woven ground, featuring coiled wire work, flat sequin-like discs, and braided metal cord arranged in curved lines, with a circular metal finding at lower center.
Title
Man's Suit
Place Made
Europe
Date Made
circa 1790, altered circa 1805
Medium
Coat and breeches: silk plain weave (shot taffeta) with sequins and metallic-thread embroidery; waistcoat: silk satin with sequins and metallic-thread embroidery
Dimensions
a) Coat center back length: 45 1/2 in. (115.57 cm); b) Waistcoat center back length: 24 1/2 in. (62.23 cm); c) Breeches inseam length: 15 1/2 in. (39.37 cm); c) Breeches side length: 26 1/2 in. (67.31 cm)
Credit Line
Purchased with funds provided by Suzanne A. Saperstein and Michael and Ellen Michelson, with additional funding from the Costume Council, the Edgerton Foundation, Gail and Gerald Oppenheimer, Maureen H. Shapiro, Grace Tsao, and Lenore and Richard Wayne
Accession Number
M.2007.211.800a-c
Classification
Costumes
Collecting Area
Costume and Textiles
Curatorial Notes

In weaving, a single throw of the shuttle that carries a bobbin of weft thread is called a “shot.” So-called “shot silk” is a fabric created when the vertical warp and horizontal weft of a plain-weave fabric differ in color. Known in French as changeant (changeable) silk, it changes colors when seen from varying angles and in different lighting conditions. Although this suit appears purple like its warp, it has a green weft; together these produce a rich iridescent sheen characteristic of shot silk.

Selected Bibliography
  • Takeda, Sharon Sadako and Kaye Durland Spilker. Fashioning Fashion: Deux Siècles de Mode Européenne, 1700-1915. Paris: Arts Décoratifs; Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art; Munich; New York: Delmonico Books-Prestel, 2013.
  • Takeda, Sharon Sadako and Kaye Durland Spilker. Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700-1915. Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art; Munich; New York: Delmonico Books/Prestel, 2010.
  • Takeda, Sharon Sadako and Kaye Durland Spilker. Fashioning Fashion: Europäische Moden, 1700-1915. Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art; Munich; New York: Prestel, 2012.

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