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Collections

Man's Coat1745-1750

Not on view
Man's frock coat in rose-brown silk brocade or damask with an all-over ivory and gold leaf and floral pattern, displayed on an invisible form
18th-century man's coat displayed from the back, made of mauve-brown silk brocade with large-scale ivory and gold floral and foliage pattern; fitted through the body with flared skirt vents and turned-back cuffs.
Close-up detail of a silk damask garment in mauve-brown, woven with large-scale cream and ivory botanical motifs of oversized leaves, flowers, and curving stems; a column of small fabric-covered buttons runs along the right edge.
Close-up detail of a woven textile in deep brown and cream, depicting a bird among foliage rendered in fine tapestry weave with clearly visible interlaced threads.
Woven textile fragment in brown and cream, depicting a standing figure in robes holding a basket, with architectural or floral elements framing the composition, weft-pattern weave visible throughout.
Title
Man's Coat
Place Made
France
Date Made
1745-1750
Medium
Silk plain weave with supplementary weft patterning bound in plain weave (lampas)
Dimensions
Center back length: 39 3/8 in. (100.01 cm)
Credit Line
Purchased with funds provided by Suzanne A. Saperstein and Michael and Ellen Michelson, with additional funding from the Costume Council, the Edgerton Foundation, Gail and Gerald Oppenheimer, Maureen H. Shapiro, Grace Tsao, and Lenore and Richard Wayne
Accession Number
M.2007.211.795
Classification
Costumes
Collecting Area
Costume and Textiles
Curatorial Notes

This coat’s large, meandering floral pattern, with details that appear to mimic lace, was woven in a technique known as lampas—the white pattern comprises a supplementary warp and weft bound in plain weave; the foundation weave consists of a brown warp and weft. Though similar to “lace-patterned” silks popular from 1715 to 1730, this design is more fluid and naturalistic.

Selected Bibliography
  • Takeda, Sharon Sadako and Kaye Durland Spilker. Fashioning Fashion: Deux Siècles de Mode Européenne, 1700-1915. Paris: Arts Décoratifs; Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art; Munich; New York: Delmonico Books-Prestel, 2013.
  • Takeda, Sharon Sadako and Kaye Durland Spilker. Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700-1915. Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art; Munich; New York: Delmonico Books/Prestel, 2010.
  • Takeda, Sharon Sadako and Kaye Durland Spilker. Fashioning Fashion: Europäische Moden, 1700-1915. Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art; Munich; New York: Prestel, 2012.

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