John S. Kimball
Man's Stockcirca 1830

On view:

David Geffen Galleries, Classical Revivals in Europe and America

Two textile accessories on a gray background: a salmon-pink and black plaid cravat with a metal fastener, and a cream pleated sash with a flat bow and rectangular buckle

Mannequin displaying early 19th-century men's ensemble: dark navy tailcoat with gold buttons over a patterned waistcoat, cream fitted trousers, white shirt with ruffled cravat, black top hat, black flat shoes, and a dark walking cane held in the right hand.

Early 19th-century men's ensemble displayed on a mannequin: navy double-breasted tailcoat with gold buttons and ruffled white cravat, cream knee-length breeches, white stockings, black patent shoes, tall black top hat, and dark walking cane.

Museum mannequin displaying early 19th-century men's ensemble: navy blue double-breasted coat with dark velvet collar and gilt brass buttons, worn over a white ruffled shirt and plaid waistcoat, with cream trousers and a black silk top hat.

Detail of a historical coat on a mannequin: navy blue wool with dark brown velvet collar, layered cream silk cravat with fine pleating, white ruffled jabot, and plaid lining in navy, red, and green visible at the lapel edge.

Manufacturer: John S. Kimball
United States, Massachusetts, Boston, 19th century
Title: Man's Stock
Place Made: United States, Massachusetts, Boston
Date Made: circa 1830
Medium: Silk satin, metal
Dimensions: Length: 16 1/2 in. (41.91 cm); Width: 4 in. (10.16 cm)
Credit Line: Gift of Mrs. Lawrence R. Tollenaere in memory of her mother Marie Adeline Huber Hansen
Accession Number: AC1998.78.1
Classification: Costumes
Collecting Area: Costume and Textiles
Curatorial Notes: During the first half of the nineteenth century, a stock, a type of neckwear for men, was an important accessory to complete the typical male ensemble, which included a somber tailcoat, vest, and trousers. This formal off-white example was made with rows of finely pleated silk satin and an attached bow. These refined elements were carefully sewn onto a backing of buckram, a stiff fabric that holds the shape of the stock when worn around the neck. Fastening at the back of the neck with a buckle, the stock would have been worn over a white shirt and collar, with the collar points fashionably framing the face under the jawline. This style of stock became popular as men’s neckwear became increasingly complex; prior to the stock, a cravat was worn, and was typically wrapped several times around the neck and then tied in a variety of knots and bows. A stock such as this one would have not only held its shape but significantly reduced the time needed for a man to put on his neckwear.

Clarissa M. Esguerra

2024
Selected Bibliography: Takeda, Sharon Sadako and Kaye Durland Spilker. Fashioning Fashion: Deux Siècles de Mode Européenne, 1700-1915. Paris: Arts Décoratifs; Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art; Munich; New York: Delmonico Books-Prestel, 2013.
Takeda, Sharon Sadako and Kaye Durland Spilker. Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700-1915. Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art; Munich; New York: Delmonico Books/Prestel, 2010.
Takeda, Sharon Sadako and Kaye Durland Spilker. Fashioning Fashion: Europäische Moden, 1700-1915. Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art; Munich; New York: Prestel, 2012.

John S. Kimball
Man's Stockcirca 1830

On view:

David Geffen Galleries, Classical Revivals in Europe and America

Manufacturer: John S. Kimball
United States, Massachusetts, Boston, 19th century
Title: Man's Stock
Place Made: United States, Massachusetts, Boston
Date Made: circa 1830
Medium: Silk satin, metal
Dimensions: Length: 16 1/2 in. (41.91 cm); Width: 4 in. (10.16 cm)
Credit Line: Gift of Mrs. Lawrence R. Tollenaere in memory of her mother Marie Adeline Huber Hansen
Accession Number: AC1998.78.1
Classification: Costumes
Collecting Area: Costume and Textiles
Curatorial Notes: During the first half of the nineteenth century, a stock, a type of neckwear for men, was an important accessory to complete the typical male ensemble, which included a somber tailcoat, vest, and trousers. This formal off-white example was made with rows of finely pleated silk satin and an attached bow. These refined elements were carefully sewn onto a backing of buckram, a stiff fabric that holds the shape of the stock when worn around the neck. Fastening at the back of the neck with a buckle, the stock would have been worn over a white shirt and collar, with the collar points fashionably framing the face under the jawline. This style of stock became popular as men’s neckwear became increasingly complex; prior to the stock, a cravat was worn, and was typically wrapped several times around the neck and then tied in a variety of knots and bows. A stock such as this one would have not only held its shape but significantly reduced the time needed for a man to put on his neckwear.

Clarissa M. Esguerra

2024
Selected Bibliography: Takeda, Sharon Sadako and Kaye Durland Spilker. Fashioning Fashion: Deux Siècles de Mode Européenne, 1700-1915. Paris: Arts Décoratifs; Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art; Munich; New York: Delmonico Books-Prestel, 2013.
Takeda, Sharon Sadako and Kaye Durland Spilker. Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700-1915. Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art; Munich; New York: Delmonico Books/Prestel, 2010.
Takeda, Sharon Sadako and Kaye Durland Spilker. Fashioning Fashion: Europäische Moden, 1700-1915. Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art; Munich; New York: Prestel, 2012.