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Collections

Unknown
Finger Ring (neli)early 19th century

Not on view
Gold finger ring with large navette-shaped bezel covered in dense high-relief figural decoration, double-band construction, and a small pearl on a wire
Artist or Maker
Unknown
Title
Finger Ring (neli)
Place Made
India, Tamil Nadu
Date Made
early 19th century
Medium
Gold with pendant pearl
Dimensions
1 3/4 × 1 × 2 in. (4.45 × 2.54 × 5.08 cm)
Credit Line
Purchased with funds provided by Harry and Yvonne Lenart
Accession Number
AC1994.175.1
Classification
Jewelry and Adornments
Collecting Area
South and Southeast Asian Art
Curatorial Notes

This elegant south Indian finger ring (neli) is a type of bridal ring that is bestowed by a newlywed’s relatives as a propitious gift to safeguard her in her new life. Neli rings are modeled on a distinctive style of armlet (vanki) with an inverted-V-shaped armature (see M.2002.83). The crowning motif at the top of the ring is an auspicious leonine "face of glory" (kirtimukha). Along the sides are symmetrical pairs of peacocks, the upper ones smaller in scale. A pendant pearl dangles from the apex of the arch between the lower peacocks.

Traditional south Indian gold and silver jewelry is typically cast or repoussé and finished with chisel-cut chasing. The design program consists primarily of sacred animals, especially griffins, elephants, tigers, rearing lions, and peafowl; various deities from India’s rich corpus of mythology; and lush floral and vegetal motifs. Gemstones are often utilized for their perceived astrological effects, particularly rubies, diamonds, and emeralds. Unlike northern Indian jewelry, the reverse is normally unenameled.

Selected Bibliography
  • Townsend, Jen and Renée Zettle-Sterling. Cast: Art and Objects Made Using Humanity's Most Transformational Process. Atglen, PA: Schiffer Publishing Ltd., 2017.