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Collections

Julia Johnson-Marshall
Woman's Ensemble (Dress and Cape)1968

Not on view
Fashion ensemble of a short cape and sleeveless shift dress in black and white optical stripe pattern spelling 'MEXICO,' displayed on an invisible form
Sleeveless shift dress displayed on a black mannequin torso, white fabric printed with bold black concentric stripe patterns forming abstract letterforms and interlocking circular motifs in an op-art style.
Sleeveless shift dress in black and white with bold Op Art striped pattern; concentric lines radiate around large block letterforms spelling 'MEXICO 68' across the front.
Flat-lay photograph of a textile cape in black and white horizontal stripes, with a chevron-striped center front panel, small collar, hook closure, and two side pocket openings along the lower hem.
Artist or Maker
Julia Johnson-Marshall
England, born 1943, active Mexico City, later Julia Murdoch
Artist or Maker
Lance Wyman
United States, New Jersey, Newark, born 1937
Artist or Maker
Pedro Ramírez Vázquez
Mexico, active Mexico City, 1919-2013
Title
Woman's Ensemble (Dress and Cape)
Date Made
1968
Medium
Dress: polyester knit; Cape: polyester/wool knit
Dimensions
Center back length (Dress): 32 in. (81.28 cm) Center back length (Cape): 24 in. (60.96 cm)
Credit Line
Purchased with funds provided by the Bernard and Edith Lewin Collection of Mexican Art Deaccession Fund
Accession Number
M.2014.72a-b
Classification
Costumes
Collecting Area
Latin American Art
Curatorial Notes

The 1968 Summer Olympics held in Mexico City were a watershed moment in the history of Mexican design. The event marked the first time the Olympics were held in a Spanish-speaking nation and offered Mexico a unique opportunity to present itself as a modern country steeped in rich cultural tradition. Architect Pedro Ramírez Vázquez, president of the Organizing Committee, promoted the creation of a unique graphic identity and easily legible visual program, which is epitomized by Lance Wyman’s instantly iconic Mexico ’68 logotype. The designer incorporated two of the five Olympic rings into the numbers "6" and "8" and developed a font characterized by rounded figures comprised of concentric lines. True to the mission of the Organizing Committee, Wyman drew both on the tradition of Huichol embroidery and contemporaneous Op art to create the logotype.

Wyman’s logotype appeared in many forms throughout the Mexico ’68 visual program, including on this edecán (hostess) dress designed by Julia Johnson-Marshall (later Julia Murdoch). The dress was worn over a white shirt with the option of adding the cape. The uniforms were color coded—here, the black signifies that the wearer worked for the National Olympics Committee, as opposed to the rosa mexicano (Mexico’s emblematic hot pink) worn by the pages of the International Olympics Committee. The Mexico ‘68 logotype is turned vertically and placed at the center of the dress, running from nearly the neckline to the hem. It then expands into a series of evenly spaced lines, creating an all-encompassing pattern with the logo at its core.


JoAnna Reyes Walton, Research Assistant, Rachel Kaplan, Wallis Annenberg Curatorial Fellow, Latin American Art, 2017

Selected Bibliography
  • Kaplan, Wendy, ed. Found in Translation: Design in California and Mexico, 1915-1985. Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art; Munich: DelMonico Books-Prestel, 2017.