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Collections

Woman's Coat (Dolman)circa 1885

Not on view
Museum display of a Regency-era cream and burgundy plaid dress on a white mannequin, styled with a white bonnet, magenta scarf, gold clasps, and a teal closed umbrella
Three-quarter view of a late 19th-century woman's dress ensemble on a white mannequin: cream wool with dark red windowpane plaid, fitted bodice, bustle silhouette, paired with a dark burgundy bonnet trimmed in lace and a folded green parasol with wooden handle.
Late 18th-century dress and matching cape displayed on a mannequin, rear view; cream woven fabric with large burgundy windowpane plaid, floor-length skirt with back pleats, paired with a dark burgundy bonnet trimmed with white feathers.
Close-up of a two-piece shell clasp with iridescent brown mother-of-pearl surface, decorated with applied floral and berry motifs in cream and dark brown, fastened at the center front of a tan plaid wool garment.
Title
Woman's Coat (Dolman)
Place Made
England
Date Made
circa 1885
Medium
Wool twill
Dimensions
Center back length: 58 1/4 in. (147.955 cm)
Credit Line
Purchased with funds provided by Suzanne A. Saperstein and Michael and Ellen Michelson, with additional funding from the Costume Council, the Edgerton Foundation, Gail and Gerald Oppenheimer, Maureen H. Shapiro, Grace Tsao, and Lenore and Richard Wayne
Accession Number
M.2007.211.780
Classification
Costumes
Collecting Area
Costume and Textiles
Curatorial Notes

For centuries, wool fabric in various woven techniques and thicknesses has been utilized in a wide range of garments—from military uniforms to fashionable dress for both men and women. This dolman, an outer garment with sleeves that are set into armscyes that extend to the waist, is tailored to be worn over a bustled dress. The wool twill is similar in woven structure and pattern to that used for men’s suits.

Selected Bibliography
  • Takeda, Sharon Sadako and Kaye Durland Spilker. Fashioning Fashion: Deux Siècles de Mode Européenne, 1700-1915. Paris: Arts Décoratifs; Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art; Munich; New York: Delmonico Books-Prestel, 2013.
  • Takeda, Sharon Sadako and Kaye Durland Spilker. Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700-1915. Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art; Munich; New York: Delmonico Books/Prestel, 2010.
  • Takeda, Sharon Sadako and Kaye Durland Spilker. Fashioning Fashion: Europäische Moden, 1700-1915. Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art; Munich; New York: Prestel, 2012.